MBFW RUSSIA 2019: fourth and fifth days | Fashion
April 6, 2019
The regular season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia has ended, in which 169 new and 48 permanent designers took part.
OKSANA FEDOROVA supported the program “Moscow Longevity” an older model participated in the designer’s show. The light went out and the sounds of the song “Oh, you are my night” performed by Dmitry Hvorostovsky were heard, and everyone in the hall understood that the collection was about Russia. The collection turned out calm, not fanciful and restrained. It is noticeable in details that the Russian costumes of different epochs were really rethought: sleeves, lanterns, hats, resembling kokoshniks, lace gloves, patterns, caftans, fur collars. The main colors of the collection are cold beige, black, red, white and gray. At some moments, the images attributed the audience to the image of a peasant, in others – to Anna Karenina and something noble. But the whole story was about a woman in all its manifestations. For example, a double-breasted jacket with culottes in a houndstooth, combining white and beige, would fit a modern and self-confident girl. And the last velvet dress with a train would be an excellent choice for an evening event.
A group of infectious dancing girls opened the show Julia Dalakyan. They were no different from professional models, but they had one advantage – to dance virtuoso Vogue and defiantly take off their jackets to such an extent that the hall burst into applause. All basic things were transferred to the future, where girls from night to morning dance fashionable choreographic trends. When thoughtful sexuality began to look through, it became clear that Bond's girlfriend was before us. She had long abandoned the frilly latex jumpsuits and chose an alternative version of denim in a hooded sweatshirt, which favorably emphasized the waist, as well as trouser sets in silk of eggplant shade with silver beads. In the middle of the show, Bond's girl moved from the party to the office on the highest floor of the skyscraper and for this she decorated the boring flannel suits with laces, applications of cranes and flowers. Against the background of restrained scales, a monochrome burgundy color set with a kimono jacket stood out. In her life, many unexpected turns, so on many sweatshirts and pencil skirts intersected gold lines.
Transparent ankle-high ankle boots paired with black socks were chosen from the accessories.
The designers have realized the principle of a beautiful inside out literally: as if they twisted all things with stitches outside and presented them with pride to the world – equally perfect from both sides. Hence, the accent passing through the entire collection is on contrast stitching of seams, on labels and composers (“100% RUBAN” – they say) sewn from the outside on deliberately demonstrated constructive elements.
The main pattern was made up of contours of patterns, preserved in the archives of the studio over the years of work on the collections. He embellished in the form of embroidery voluminous coats and a weightless dress made of mesh, in the form of a print – a white transforming shirt. Completed the pattern of imitation of technical inscriptions and basting seams, made by hand.
Continuing to work with the traditionally easily obedient bold designs of the designer duet materials, Alisa and Yulya Ruban also discovered a new field of experiments for themselves. The most characteristic bestsellers of the brand – cocoon coats made of wool and cotton trench coats – for the first time complemented down jackets decorated with functional details. A short down jacket – with lightning, with which you can fit a model, a long one – with a reclining yoke, opening the shoulders (a tribute to the often changeable weather). The second autumn-winter season designers are also happy to work with artificial fur. This time, the sisters Ruban put overlock stitches on the front side of the fur coats and presented them with a very necessary accessory in a cold climate – a fur plaid fur scarf.
In contrast to the oversized outerwear, the designer duo includes the easiest cocktail and evening looks in the autumn-winter collection: a translucent lace combination and top, a mesh dress and a silk maxi dress. The latter is decorated with hooks that change, at the request of the owner, the silhouette beyond recognition.
In the new collection of Alexander Arutyunov the space heroine is marching, showing off all her seductive parts of the body, not being afraid of being open and sexy. The designer decided to add space charm, metallic colors, geometric costumes and huge hats in the new autumn-winter collection.
The future has not only come, but also blurred the boundaries between the cosmic and the terrestrial. Therefore, if in your wardrobe there are no clothes with a print in the form of a rocket or bulk gold accessories, it is time to fix it. The designer is experimenting with galactic prints, shapes and fabrics, but does it wisely – for example, metal cloth trousers will have to have in the new season.
The designer paid attention not so much towards space, but towards the interaction of the human body and progress, creating a collection on the verge of science and fiction. He picked up a wave of interest in other worlds, started searching for new forms and materials, began to reflect on the clothes of the future thanks to the Cosmos pavilion at the Exhibition of Economic Achievements, which influenced his imagination after his reconstruction.
The uniting elements of the collection are an abundance of leather, gold surround accessories, tweed and shoes in the style of the 80s. Thanks to the collection of the brand Alexander Arutyunov, the modern viewer will have the opportunity to look into the wardrobe of bold and modern women.
The audience was expecting this show with impatience, which could no longer sit in the chest and therefore turned into an exciting whisper when the lights went out and the club beat sounded. Sweater with raw edges and year skirt dandelion shade. Monochrome themes covered most of the show, and at the same time the pullovers, casually worn over the dress shirts, were painted with a relevant lavender shade.
Alexander Rogov completely transformed the vest and sewed mohair tea dresses from it, which looked very original with lace tights. Also, the list of tendencies of the autumn-winter season was replenished with a coat in a checkerboard, the cells of which were painted in different gradations of gray.
The images complemented the oblong bags of neon-pink hue and a badge with the designer's name for a pass to the stylish life.
In the finale of the show, the designer himself in a milky monochrome image walked out on the podium with flying gait, and the audience exploded into impetuous applause.
Speranza Couture by NADEZDA YUSUPOVA
Lyrical digression: life according to Nadezhda Yusupova is made up of “I want”, “I can” and “I will”; “I want” is her desire, which only she can fulfill, and after that she will have what she wanted. The collection called “I am different” is wedding and evening dresses of all stripes. The most popular style of this collection is the fishtail dress. Most of the products were translucent, created from French and Italian fabrics and lace, decorated with crystals, pearls and beads. Everything sparkled, shimmered and shone. A lot of feathers were used in the images, which obviously facilitated the dresses and made them swan-like delicate and sophisticated. Also, as a complement, bows and capes, giving a special aesthetic, appeared. It seems that in any of these dresses the wedding would be unforgettable. The main colors of the evening collection were dusty violet, pink, gray, metallic, which clearly stood out from the rest. The show-stopper became a magnificent bridal dress with a long veil, truly luxurious and expensive.
Igor Gulyaev is a leading Russian designer who gained fame not only thanks to the creation of gorgeous evening dresses for the carpet, but also due to the ability to create real works of art from fur.
His show finishes Fashion Week, and therefore the public rightly expected a grand show. At the request of the majority, it happened under the imperative slogan “Guläi!” .
In this story, massive down jackets, elegant coats, fur vests and ponchos painted with neon shades cleared. The mad artist tried his best and even added a portrait of Igor Gulyaev made in the technique of pop art and said that this year the mayor has a luxury anniversary. Logomania cleared up on all items of clothing, starting with leggings, ending with the same coat, and on some models were added a branded print of a fashion house and a barcode. It was not just a show, but a real dance performance with a touch of healthy irony.
Accessories played a dominant role. Corporate handwriting by Igor Gulyaev is hats. They were very fancy in form – they took a painter with a visor, a beanie cap with imitation of pencil shavings and earflaps made of nuclear-colored fur.
The final solemnly ended with fireworks of golden confetti and the designer’s exit, surrounded by models, while wearing the face of the creator of their clothes.
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